I have now abandoned my Scout and support for it and have built a DJI Flame Wheel F550 ARF kit.
This pages will still be hosted for your reference only, comments have been closed.
For further support, please join the new Facebook Walkera Scout X4 and Tali H500 Support Group and ask your questions there.
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FIRSTLY!!! If you have not yet bought a Scout, I highly recommend you don’t at the present time! Many problems have surfaced with both software and hardware as you will find out below and on the MODS page. You will spend MANY hours up to your elbows in Scout parts tuning, tweaking, and slaving over a hot soldering iron and settings. You will likely get NO support from Walkera directly – if you can’t be convinced and are up for the challenge, buy from a reputable authorised local dealer! You have been warned! Hopefully Walkera will lift their game and I can alter the above statement.

 The advice on this page is unofficial and has been compiled by a new user (Tone) from other users feedback due to a lack of information directly from Walkera. The tips here have been gathered from various sources, most of these I have tested on my Scout X4, some I have learnt the hard way.  It is still a work in progress and there are still some current user issues with no known cause or solution.Use this advice completely at your own risk – but ignore it at your peril. READ IT CAREFULLY, COMPLETELY AND FULLY UNDERSTAND IT BEFORE CHANGING ANYTHING! Please read our full legal disclaimer.

Many items on this page are different to the manual as the manual is incorrect, incomplete or can’t be understood in places. New Scouts may begin to have some of these settings and mods already installed.
TO HELP AVOID A CRASH (anything in red is very important!!!!)
I’d like to thank everyone who has helped me along the way, a special mention to Matt Kim, Bo Loretzen and Jeffery Chan. This is your work too – in no way do I take credit for anyone’s invaluable advice here, I’m still learning too!

BEFORE FIRST EVER FLIGHT:

It’s highly recommended to have previous experience with quadcopters or practice on a cheaper quad before flying the Scout X4 like the Hubsan X4 107D or consider the Phantom or a larger cheaper frame first.
While the Scout isn’t overly difficult to fly, the initial correct set up can be very technical in nature. You have a lot to learn very quickly to avoid accidents!
READ THE MANUALS:
Walkera Scout X4 Quick Start Guide
Devo F12e Manual
APM Controller and Mission Planner (Bewrare, Walkera have made some changes!)

THIS LINKS BELOW HAVE VERY IMPORTANT INFORMATION
NOT FOUND IN THE MANUAL!!!

***    CHECK THE MODS PAGE    ***

  – FOR HARDWARE MODS TO AVOID A POTENTIAL CRASH!

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***    VISIT THE NEW
MISSION PLANNER AND APM SETTING PAGE!
   ***
***    –  FOR INSTALL INSTRUCTIONS AND IMPORTANT SETTINGS!!      ***
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Charge your battery – *see notes further down this page.

Settings to change on the Devo F12E transmitter:

Model Menu / Type Select / Airplane Should be in airplane mode, NOT helicopter mode!
Model Menu / Sensor Setting / Voltage . External: V1 Active – default is 21.4, change to 21.6 (Gives you more warning and time to land for low battery)
– On testing one of my batteries, it will safely fly to 20.4v – about 18 mins of reasonably active flying with camera. After that the battery depletes VERY quickly! GPS seems to lose accuracy on a low battery.
Every battery and charge may vary, as does flight activity and wind effect, so allow a reasonable error margin and test your own equipment! I now set a timer for 7 mins just before takeoff.
Function Menu / Travel Adjust / Flap / – default U150% D150%, change to U100%, D100% (reduces drifting in GPS mode BUT disables Auto Take-off)
To move your default camera angle down :- Function Menu / Sub trim / AUX6 default 0 change to +15 to +50
– This removes the sudden movement on horizon from the centred notch and makes for smoother vertical panning.
The following change is not required if the change above has been done:
To fix gimbal shudder when pointing up :- Function menu / Travel adjust / AUX6 – change -100 to -47 and test.
To display FPV behind telemetry :- System menu / Video Setting / Background – select ACTIVE.
If altitude telemetery is wrong :- Model Menu / Sensor Setting / Sensor Submenu / GPS Setting / Alt type. Absolute
To slow your landing gear down to help prolong worm servo switches:- function Menu / Travel Adjust /  AUX4  – set +12 -8 or to your liking for speed control thanks to Kenneth (via Dale Hamilton – thanks!)
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URGENT. Finally got around to testing, why some Scouts are falling out of the sky.
A while ago, I figure out that there is a bug in the “A” series receivers that do not allow Failsafe to function properly. The Scout receiver is also an “A” series unit, and exhibits the same problem. I’m not going to go into what and why, but just how to fix the issue.
If you lose radio contact with your Scout, even for an instant, it will NOT reconnect, and Failsafe (RTL) will not work. This fix will work for H500 as well.

PLEASE READ and REREAD these instructions.
In order to fix this (Have tested this morning), you will need to set Fixed ID on the f12e, and also setup Failsafe.
Here is a video on how to do the Fixed ID: First, turn on the Copter, as soon as you hear the beeps, turn on the F12e. Then wait fotr it to bind and then follow the video — https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jly63w5LZh4

Fixed ID = Menu >Model Menu>Fixed ID
After you perform the Fixed ID, repower the copter and wait for the binding procedure to finish again. Then you will need to go into the F12e menu > Function Menu > Fail Safe> and then set “GEAR” to +100%. This is setting up Failsafe.

After it’s done, you can connect to mission planner, and then go into Initial Setup> Radio Config> and then keep an eye on CH5. When your flight mode switch is set to Manual Mode/Stabilize, the CH5 slider in Mission Planner should be all the way to the left. To test Fail Safe, turn off the radio, and you should see the CH5 Slider move all the way to the Right.
If it moves all the way to the Right, you have setup Fail Safe correctly.
If it does not work, or your radio does not bind properly, you’ll have to go back into the Fixed ID menu, and turn it off and try again.
(Original source – PLEASE ASK QUESTIONS THERE)

UPDATE: please join the new Facebook Walkera Scout X4 and Tali H500 Support Group and ask your questions there.
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 Ideally, propellers should be balanced to avoid “jelly” effect while filming.
Lastly, READ THE MANUALS AGAIN!

PRE-DEPARTURE:
Check weather forecast – wind.
UAV battery charged – LiPo Balance S6  3.1A 22.2v 5200mAh LiPo
TX battery charged -LiPo Balance S3 2.0A 11.1v 2200mAh  Take spare AA’s.
MicroSD card – empty, formatted, inserted.
Launching pad – weighted cardboard or foam is best.
Spares – props, leg tubes, batteries, tape, cable ties.
Tools – Alan Keys, small plyers, small screwdrivers, cord for prop removal.
Netbook (with Mission Planner installed), USB Cable, Phone, tripod, flight timer.
*Callibration should only be done ONCE on initial setup or if moving over 150km – NOT every flight as the compass is designed to learn as it flies.
It is a wise idea to fit a small GPS/SIM tracking unit on the Scout incase you crash it or it flies away.
after the excitement of a good flight, I often forget to turn the camera off before the TX and lose the video!! As it's too windy to fly today, I just came up with this simple mod for the F12E
after the excitement of a good flight, I often forget to turn the camera off before the TX and lose the video!! I came up with this simple mod for the F12E – a tag over the power switch.

PRE-FLIGHT:
Inspect UAV – Props: damage inc. cracks, fatigue, balance, installation A/B correct, securely fitted, rotate freely.
Drone: Body, arms, rotors fitted correctly and turn free, secure loose wiring, screws tight, landing pads, battery, gimbal moves freely, camera lens clean, Micro SD inserted – select video or photo.
Takeoff/landing area – Clear of debris, level, soft, free of unwary spectators.
Flight area/conditions – Clear of trees, powerlines, hazards (especially down-wind), check for aircraft, check wind direction and strength.
Set up ground camera on tripod if required.
UAV on flight pad – upright, level, clear area.
UAV ON – slide on switch press power for 5 seconds – beeps and engines turn. start flight timer,
TX ON – throttle fully down, sticks neutral, all switches off – TX power on – do not move any sticks or trim – Pairs with UAV place on ground.
Start 3 minute timer –WAIT FOR 3 MINUTES, check 3+ GPS blue light flashes. (if you don’t wait 3 mins and have GPS lock, the Scout will become erratic and cause a crash!!!)
(The big red light on the battery above the green status LED’s will flash blue to indicate satelite status).
If you are launching in a new location, then shut the system down. This backs up the coordinates in the system in case of any data failure. Restart, wait for 3 minutes & gps lock, then fly.
Change F12E to telemetry view: Funcion menu / Sensor View / R or L to select viewport display.
Controller test – TX connected, check battery levels on UAV and TX, normal mode check, unlock motors, test throttle, rotation, pitch with small movements.
Camera RECORD ON – if footage capture required.
Signal intention to take off.
Final area clear check.
Arm and disarm TWICE before flying (saves launch location)
Fly/takeoff in MANUAL OR GPS MODE only when you have a good gps lock (after 3 mins), otherwise disable gps in mission planner before flying manual with no GPS fix.
(- If GPS is detected while in flight and not before during 3 minute wait, it will cause the Scout to crash or fly away!!)
Take off – GPS or Manual: 30% throttle, let all motors spin up (sometimes they are uneven when starting and may cause a flip), pause, then launch by quickly raising throttle to ~60%.
– Your very first flight ever should be in manual mode for around 10 mins, moving about a bit to help calibrate and settle GPS and Compass. It will improve the more the Scout is flown.
Switch to GPS about 2m up with throttle over 50%
Test GPS fix by moving Scout about then remaining stationary before moving off.

FLIGHT TIPS:
If you’ve never flown a quad before, the Scout is NOT the wisest choice to start out with (speaking from experience). There is a big learning curve for new users and there are still unresolved issues – this page should help you to understand that it is not recommended for beginners! Hopefully it helps you stay in the air too if there’s no changing your mind. It’s best to start out on a smaller quad – Hubsan X4 107D or a 350 size and practice lots!
The black and grey Scouts are easy to see in the sky, but not so good when you get below the tree line.
Your very first flight should be in Manual mode for around 10 minutes. GPS improves during your first flights, so take it easy on your first few – and always let GPS lock in properly – always wait 3 minutes at least 3 blinks, 4 is best.
Manual Mode or MIX 0 is NOT full manual mode, it is a Stabilize mode and still uses GPS. Ensure you have a proper 3 min GPS connection OR turn off GPS within Mission Planner before flying in “manual” mode. (If GPS is picked up mid flight the Scout may fly away!!)
Take offs and landings have the highest risk of an incident. Make a landing pad or use a flat grassy area at least to start with. Make sure all props spin up first then pause before launching quickly.
For takeoffs it’s best to point the Scout away from you and straight into any wind, even slight. If it tips over, cut the throttle immediately.
Dont fly too far away, if you do – Panic!! No, don’t panic – maintain height and let go of the sticks to clear your head and calm down. If you can still see it but lose your orientation, turning it till you see the lights on the battery can help, then back up towards you. Look at the FPV and see if you can figure it out REAL quick, If you have GPS you can use IOC mode or RTH. You have a choice of safety at altitude – could be temporary and worse, or bringing it down hopefully gently.
Dont use RTL except to return it to the general takeoff area! Unless your transmitter is not functioning, take over and land in manual mode.
If you change to Matt Kims RTL setting it will not land by itself, it will hover at the take off point. You will have to regain control by swtich from GPS>Manual or Manual>GPS>Manual but you have to make sure your throttle remain at 50% thrust or else it will fall.
RTL will return to the last launch site not the original launch site at power-up – The Scout and Walkera re-sets the home point when you arm / re-arm!
When decending in GPS mode, avoid using 0% throttle!! It is thought that the motors can DISARM IN FLIGHT if the throttle stick is held on 0% for too long!
Props keep running on in GPS mode landings, sometimes causing flips if theres some breeze, landing bounce or uneven ground. In normal landings, use GPS to about 4-6″ off the ground then switch to manual mode as you descend to complete the landing thottling off as it touches down to avoid prop run-on. I have not had a problem while landing that way.

If you’re unable to unlock the motors:

disable Geofence in Mission Planner (not recommended for flight but sometimes necessary for testing purposes).
You can set your Radio as below: Function Menu / Sub Trim / Rudder / change to L 20-60%
then unlock again, when unlock is ok, you need change this to 0% again.

 Someone said: in Hyper IOC mode I didn’t realize I had stepped back about 40′ behind my launch point. As the X4 flew toward me and past its home spot, the control perspective changed and I flew the unit directly into a friend of mine. He escaped with a few minor cuts on his arm.
IOC mode also turns off when your within 10m of the launch area! It’s best to have the back of the Scout facing you on approach so the controls don’t change too much to avoid confusion.
IF changing to FIXED ID for transmitter pairing, you must re-calibrate the compass when you change!
It has been recommended NOT to recalibrate the compass on the Scout unless moving over 150km away from your last flight. The compass should be set to self-learn in Mission Planner and over callibrating will cause it to get confused.

 

POST-FLIGHT:
Check landing area – clear of obstacles, people.
Land slow, level, straight down, throttle off gently.
Camera RECORD OFF – to save footage.
TX & UAV Battery status check – flight time on monitor check & record.
Put TX on ground with throttle fully down.
UAV power off/battery disconnect.
TX power off last.
Remove battery from UAV for transportation and storage
Remove MSD card from TX if required.
Clean UAV and TX of any dirt, grass, moisture and debris
Check all screws as the do vibrate loose.

MAINTENANCE:
Inspect UAV and TX for any damage – props, body, arms, wires, battery.
Props: damage inc. cracks, fatigue, balance, installation A/B correct, securely fitted, rotate freely.
Drone: Body, arms, rotors/guards fitted correctly and turn free, secure loose wiring, screws tight, landing pads.
Repair or replace parts as necessary before next flight.

Blow out motors every now and then and use some WD40 or graphite spray to lube the bearings.
Loctite 4 screws on bottom of each motor. Tamiya, Axial or Durango loctite SI5331 are plastic safe.
maintenance tip: cut out some holes in some dense foam slightly larger than the GPS antenna as support when working on your Scout upside down.
maintenance tip: cut out some holes in some dense foam slightly larger than the GPS antenna as support when working on your Scout upside down.

BATTERIES:
Charge and store LiPo batteries with risk of fire/explosion in mind – LiPo sack or metal/ceramic container. I use a fire-blanket to charge mine on.
Remove battery from UAV before charging, check for any swelling, punctures or damage.
Do not charge near flammable materials or liquids.
Check connection polarity, Do not overcharge, overheat or leave unattended.
Store battery at 50% charge if not used for more than a week. Top up every 3-6 months.
Do not disassemble, modify or repair the LiPo battery.
Do not expose UAV, Batteries or TX to moisture. Store in a dry area at room temperature.
TX: do not mix old and new batteries, different types of batteries.
Do not recharge non-rechargeable batteries.
If you have more than one battery, put a rubber band around it after charging. Remove it before placing in device.
It’s wise to test your batteries for time and minimum voltage in a controlled situation. Fly around fairly hard or high to begin with. After battery warning, watch you voltage levels and fly low over long grass is best. Try to keep moving it around a bit to simulate hard flying for worst case senario. Every battery may be different, mine flies fairly hard with camera for 17 mins – down to 20.4 V. After that voltage drops very quickly! I landed at 20.2V to be safe.

Charging:
imax B6 liPro Balance Charger
Hook up white Balance Charging cable
Hook up + & – cables
Turn on power to charger
Turn on battery power – Slide the power switch to ON position,
press the power button for 3-5 seconds till the power indicator keeps on.
Press INC. button to enter LiPo BALANCE charge mode
Choose  3.1A   22.2v (6S)
Long press ENTER to detect battery
Press ENTER briefly again to begin Charging
Press STOP when finished.
I changed the order because the balance charging cable would spark if I hooked the power to battery up first.
In the following video he doesn’t turn battery on – but it should be ON.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ImMkgReJLTs&feature=player_detailpage
Lithium batteries are recommended to be discharged partially rather than fully. Frequent fully discharging should be avoided.Instead, charge the battery more often or use a battery of larger capacity. Full capacity cannot be reached until it has been subjected to 10 or more charge cycles. The cyclic process of charge and discharge will optimize the battery capacity.
TX battery –  MO140813B0150
3 or 4 pin 100mW 1.3A
LiPo 7.4 or 11.1V or 8x 1.5V
121mm long x 30mm x 35mm
Currently testing this one: Hobyking  http://hobbyking.com.au/hobbyking/store/uh_viewItem.asp?idProduct=45679
Seems good, has over and undercharging protection, final discharge is fast, recommend recharging every 4th Scout battery.
LiPo BALANCE charge mode
Choose  2.0A   11.1v (3S)
IMPORTANT: the F12E’s battery warning is set for AA batteries by default at a much lower voltage. If using 11.1v LiPo be sure to change – System Menu / Battery / Alarm to 10.2V
When using a LiPo battery in your TX, fitting a seperate voltage alarm like this to your balance cable is a great idea, it gives you a different sound alarm to the F12E so there’s no confusion which battery is getting low.
PropRemoval
To remove a stuck prop, wrap some soft covered electrical cable around the motor for some leverage. Turn the prop in the direction of the arrow.
SAFETY:
Check the Aviation rules in your area before flying and ALWAYS abide by them! It only takes a few idiots to wreck this hobby for everyone.
Be aware of your personal safety, safety of others and the surrounding environment.
Always fly within your own limits and capabilities and that of the aircraft.
Do not fly tired or impaired by alcohol or medication.
If possible, fly with another experienced person, particularly outdoors and windy conditions.
Fly with a “spotter” if using First Person View for flight.
Check conditions pre-flight, always be prepared for changing conditions/wind gusts.
Choose a wide open space without obstacles. Do not operate near buildings, crowds of people, high voltage cables or trees.
Be aware of propellers – keep loose clothing, fingers and body away from blades.
Stop operation immediately if UAV is out of view. Always throttle off if bailing/crashing.
Once landed, immediately turn off throttle, VIDEO, UAV then TX.
Never take your eyes off UAV or leave unattended if on.
It is highly recommended to NOT catch your Muli-rotor instead of landing. Serious injury can result.
Always respect peoples privacy! Get permission before flying over their house or land. Any footage captured of a personal nature should NOT be published on the internet or elsewhere.

CAMERA:
With iLook attached, to take a photo, start or stop video recording, switch AILE D/R down and up (0->1->0) quickly. When you switch down AILE D/R over 5secs it will reformat the memory card!
The iLook doesn’t handle high contrast very well, it films best on bright sunny days. Often to get the best results, try to exclude the sky or keep it to a minumum so that the ground is exposed correctly.
There seems to be no way to adjust settings on the iLook like exposure, ISO, white balance etc. It has a blue hue to the picture. The quality is reasonable for practice and hobbyists but lacks detail and clarity for any serious work.
The supplied gimbal is lightweight and will also fit a GoPro. It’s reasonably stable standard by there is a mod by Matt Kim
For now I’m still using the iLook, but here’s some info I’ve found on the GoPro:

Paul Murray says: If using a GoPro switch the camera to record upside down and mount the camera upside down in the gimble otherwise every time you have finished filming you have to take the camera out of the gimble to remove the sd card or plug in the hdmi cable cause the gimble tilt motor is in the way.

You will have to press the record button on the gopro before you lift off.
GOPRO setup:  http://youtu.be/RAb0dpbbTQk
a TX5804 transmitter  Use the two cable in the spare parts bag. One goes to the gopro the other from the 5803 to the Scout 12v
Jeffery Chan immersionRC 250mw & 600mw VTX a are tested compatible with DEVO F12E. I’m using both.
RX antenna to fly more than 1km on DevoF12E. http://fpvlr.com/shop/index.php?route=product%2Fproduct…
Antenna on my Fatshark. you have to point at the Drone to get clear FPV. http://fpvlr.com/shop/index.php?route=product%2Fproduct…Fatshark goggles will work with the Scout.  Default is ch8
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kebwin6fi84
Making the Best RF Shield for the GoPro Hero3 + https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=f4OZYsdSnB8
VIDEO REPAIR/RECOVERY:
If you forget to turn off the video after a flight  or because of a crash you can recover it using the following:
Grau GmbH Hardware & Software Solutions » Video Repair Software

create another copy of the file and merge both together if using Demo.

Copy and rename. Run cmd, use copy/b name.MOV + name1.MOV enter (original source)
If your Radio screen shown card error, you should reformat the memory card using exFAT format.
Recover files from a spoiled memory card or hardisk: http://www.cgsecurity.org/wiki/TestDisk_Download
It’s a standalone software. you don’t need to install. extract and click QPhotoRec to run window base screen. follow the guide and you will see the files  (Jeffery Chan)

GCS GROUND STATION SOFTWARE AND BLUETOOTH DATALINK: It is not yet recommended to use this feature on the Scout as it has not been fully tested yet and there is only limited information about it’s operation available. There have been a few incidents reported by users, so use with extreme caution. There is already a firmware update available on the Walkera website. If you’re game, let us know how you went.
There is a mod in development that will enable you to use the radio and waypoint feature together. This involves changing wiring inside the Scout to bypass the BT-2401A for manual control and changing some settings on the F12E transmitter to allow extra flight modes. This is documented in the Walkera Scout X4 Facebook group but not yet fully tested. The GCS Android app can be downloaded HERE.

Resources:
Links to Walkera video tutorials: http://www.jostechfactory.com.au/scout-x4-video-guides.html
Link to Walkera Scout X4 manual: http://7gsports.eu/media/wysiwyg/pdf/Scout%20X4.pdf
Link to Devo F12e manual:http://www.iuasinc.com/content/DevoF12E_Manual_EN.pdf
Join the new Facebook Walkera Scout X4 and Tali H500 Support Group

FORUM: http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2251486
Walkera: http://walkera.com/
Walkera Australia: https://www.walkerawholesale.com.au/
Walkera USA: http://iuasinc.com/

CASA: http://www.casa.gov.au

Spare Parts:
Parts for the Scout x4 have become more redily available and are quite reasonably priced.
Walkera site shipping from Hong Kong: http://walkera.com/en/search.php?encode=YToyOntzOjg6ImtleXdvcmRzIjtzOjg6InNjb3V0IHg0IjtzOjE4OiJzZWFyY2hfZW5jb2RlX3RpbWUiO2k6MTQxMzY2NDA2Njt9
Prices are good (in US $) but theres no cheap option for postage. It cost over $40 to send a battery and 4 props to Australia, ended up about $220 AU. Good to see body shells there for $36 US. They also have leg sections for the Tali that should fit the Scout and the firmware upgrade dongle.
Walkera Australia: a limited range listed online but email Matt if there’s something you need, he has been very helpful to me.
There’s also props and the metal case available here: http://www.iuasinc.com/scout-x4/
Another source for parts, though many aren’t yet in stock: http://www.walkeraonline.com/walkera-parts-394121037/walkera-scout-x4-parts-1266218769
LiPo Battery for F12E:  http://hobbyking.com.au/hobbyking/store/uh_viewItem.asp?idProduct=45679
DON’T FORGET TO DO THESE IMPORTANT HARDWARE MODS! and change your MISSION PLANNER SETTINGS.

* PLEASE NOTE:
USE INFORMATION AT YOUR OWN RISK – NO RESPONSIBILITY TAKEN!

This page is still evolving and may not be complete or suit your requirements.
We are not responsible for external link content – do your own research.
Last of all, fly safe, don’t crash and have fun 🙂

 

Walkera Scout X4, beginners guide, tutorial, getting started, lessons, help, first flight, instructions, manual, quick start guide, systems flowchart.
Last updated: 17.12.2014 - new MissionPlanner page! 

*If you appreciate the time, effort and research gone into this website or if you feel it’s helped you avoid a crash, please give tasview.com a mention in groups and forums or help us answer questions in the comments below 🙂
Thanks for visiting.

 

______________________________________

I have now abandoned my Scout and support for it and have built a DJI Flame Wheel F550 ARF kit.
This pages will still be hosted for your reference only, comments have been closed.
For further support, please join the new Facebook Walkera Scout X4 and Tali H500 Support Group and ask your questions there.

This page was last updated 19th March, 2015.

68 thoughts on “Scout X4 – Getting Started Guide

  1. Very nice indeed. Thanks for doing this. I have my own notes but missed some of these. Great work Anthony

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  2. Thank you for a very useful write up. A few things in there I’d found out myself but it took time, would have been loads easier if I’d found your web page sooner. One thing I’d add in though is the danger of descending too fast, nearly caught me out.

    Currently my Scout-X4 is waiting for spares, not because of a crash but it looks like one ESC has failed. I had a successful flight in light mist in the morning. (hoping to get above it to see the sun coming up but it was too thick). After a battery charge tried to fly in the afternoon and one motor just doesn’t start any more. Would be interesting to know if anyone else has had similar problems. I think I was extremely lucky that it didn’t fail mid flight!

    Thanks
    Stephen

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    1. Thanks for the feedback. Would pay to ull the body apart and check the wiring first if you haven’t already.

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      1. Thanks, I have had a good look at it. Checked/compared input wave forms to the device, verified a few voltages and it all looks good, but the motor does not turn, nor do the LED (green) lights come on. Makes me fairly sure it is the micro controller that has failed. I just hope it isn’t a common fault but I haven’t found anyone else with similar issues but then again there aren’t many forums about for the X4 yet. I am a little concerned that I should do some kind of ESC calibration when fitting the new board but haven’t figured out if it is necessary or if necessary how.

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      2. ECS callibration be done through mission planner – if it works. Change the ECS entry to 1, the Scout should calibrate next time you turn it on. I didnt get any confirmation though.

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      3. Just thinking, your issue and the way it has happened may have been caused by excess moisture flying through the mist, especially if it was thick. There are many ventilation openings on the Scout and lots of delicate electronics inside which wouldn’t be too keen on getting wet. Just a thought. Hope you get back in the air soon Stephen.

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  3. Hello
    Thanks for the comments, I’ll be looking into ESC calibration, but I didn’t even realise you could use mission planner with the X4. I’m somewhat nervous of connecting it though given I could re-flash the whole thing?? I have calibrated ESCs before though using the all in one method https://code.google.com/p/arducopter/wiki/AC2_ESC . Perhaps Walkera will let me do that?

    Otherwise yes I also thought water might have been the cause of my issues. Perhaps a drop of water on a 5volt regulator meaning it didn’t regulate thus destroying the micro-controller, or similar. I have though now found one motor connector, the connection under the silicon, was not properly soldered and was probably only held in place by the silicon but also one power FET that connects to that same lead had blown its top off! It is just a miracle it didn’t just fall out the sky. That said I’m quite impressed by the rest of the build, all other connections and soldering looks really good. I now have replacement ESC on ‘express’ ?? delivery and $1.00 FET on delivery. (of course you can’t just order a single $1 FET, you have to spend a minimum of £20.00 so 6 FET’s and a bunch of other stuff I don’t really need.

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    1. Thanks for sharing Stephen, sounds like your on top of the issue. If you can get Matt or Bo’s ear in the Facebook group, they’re the fellas to ask if you have technical questions. Unless I’ve had a particular issue I can only take a guess unless I’ve read about other people having an issue and they share it so we can all learn 🙂

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  4. Hi my name is Brian Leupold, my family makes gun scopes here in Oregon and I was wanting to use the Scout to a scene with a spotting scope near Mt Hood. I have flown several quadcopters but they were easy to get started like the Blade 350, I keep getting a blinking red light, when I turn on the F12e I then activate the battery on the Scout, still just a blinking red light…not sure what I am doing wrong. ANY suggestions are appreciated, happy flying!

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    1. Hi Brian, It’s oddly recommended to turn on the Scout first, and then the F12E while the Scout is beeping on startup, this may solve your problem. If this is the first time you’ve turned it on, make sure the Scout is upside down with props off or legs are clear because they should come down! The best place to ask questions is the Walkera Scout X4 Facebook Group. Unfortunately I’ve been banned for making a joke – so don’t make any jokes :/

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    2. Hi Brian, A similar thing happened to me one evening but it came right the next morning without changing anything – so I don’t know what caused it other than it seems to be a binding issue and seems to be a warning. Try turning your Scout on first, then the F12E when the Scout starts to beep. Check all your switches are on 0 (up position) and throttle is at 0. Check your transmitter battery.

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      1. Thank you for getting back to me, i really appreciate it, i did what you suggested, it really helped.
        I have flown a few times now, nothing crazy but 10+ minutes of flying with no ill effects other than a n overly fragile landing skid that snapped. Taped it up no problems.
        As for the timing of my motors start ing at the same time, should i try to do this , i read about some poor soul who did this and now his scout flips over on takeoff.
        what is the best help for the software app on my android, to fly autonomous can it lift off on its own ?i thought it had to be in “0” manule and it can’t takeoff safely in gps “1” on my controller. How tough is the mod to protect the landing gear from ruining the main board? I have never soldered anything, would you do any mods for pay? Thanks again your information is the most helpful for the Scout than any other i have found. Does Walkera owe you a Scout? I take it from your comments you have gone through some crashes from your research on how this thing works. All the best
        Brian

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      2. Hi Brian,
        I’ve read that the suggested timing mod – which you won’t find mentioned in the startup guide – should not be done.
        I have not used the GCS android software, some people in the SCOUT X4 facebook group are testing it, some have had problems.
        I believe there is an update for the BT-2401A & B hardware, I haven’t tried it yet as I don’t which to introduce more problems for me at this current time as I’m trying to settle my craft and set it up with a GoPro and OSD soon – details will be updated on the Modifications page.
        I haven’t opened up my leg retract to check on the mod but so far it’s working well.
        Ask around and see if someone you know can teach you how to solder – it’s not difficult but there’s a few tricks to get it right like heating the part and wire then melting the solder to them and not the iron for a good bond. Search “how to solder” on youtube.com. I have considered doing repairs for other’s but the cost of postage to and from Tasmania would make it an expensive excersise.
        Does Walkera owe me a Scout? Very interesting question.
        As my particular Scout hasn’t worked out of the box as Walkera boldly claims in their advertising – with out many previously undocumented modifications and preventative repairs – perhaps I should be offered the option of a new one or a full refund as Australian law states?
        Apart from a sliding switch on a battery which recently failed, I have my Scout flying well again, so the decision wouldn’t be easy if it were offered.
        I wish you luck with yours 🙂

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  5. Hey, thanks for all the useful tips. I wish I had came across this forum before I had to experience some of these issues first hand.
    The issue I’m having with my Scout is, Whenever I put it in GPS hold (MIX SW “1” )
    My scout stays in place and does slow clockwise rotation and I lose functionality of the ail/elev stick. Do you have any idea of what might be causing an a solution to the problem….Please Help….thanks

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    1. Hi David, Glad you found my site helpful. I’m fairly new to quadcopters and have not experienced your issue. The best place to ask questions is the Walkera Scout X4 Facebook Group. Unfortunately I’ve been banned for making a joke – so don’t make any jokes :/
      There’s a lot of great guys in THIS group though and I’m still in there 🙂 I will continue to update this page as information is passed to me. Cheers.

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      1. Hi its Brian Leupold from amity oregon, if you ever want any optics we make http://www.leupold.com ill get you a family price 😉
        I flew today and had a few questions. For one i noticed when the camera was plugged in i had OVERLAPPING TEXT on my screen, because of this it was hard to read. Have you seen this? If not ill get a picture and send it.
        I also was a bit spooked when i was descending, it seemed to come down rapidly, almost felt like i was losing control. I lowered the nose …if there is a nose on a quadcopter lol, anyway i made it go forward and turned it a bit and this did prevent the waay to fast descent. I also noticed sort of sketchy video, it was certainly not without flickering, it was sort of a grab bag, at times the video feed was fine, then it looked like the t.v. in Poltergeist.
        I am pleased with how it flies. When not falling from the clouds it was stable, the gopro footage was awesome! What a step up from the Blade 350, it handles nice.
        I was hoping lastly you could explain your thoughts on flying in manule mode. I have yet to fly in GPS i keep the switch at “0” ,but you said something to the effect that it can discover gps midflight and potentially fly away! If i continue flying in manule do i need to turn off GPS? Whats the benefit of GPS flying, its super stable in manule mode, so why should i give 50% + throttle and switch to GPS?
        PLEASE clarify what you mean as us Oregon country boys are not known for our book smarts, i raise goats to give you an idea of what your dealing with. ..Fainting Goats no less!
        thanks again your a life saver, i wouldn’t be flying at all if you hadn’t posted your experiences, advice and encouragement.
        All the best Brian

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      2. Thanks for the offer on the optics Brian – I’ll keep that in mind 🙂
        I haven’t seen overlapping text so send me a screenshot – other than when the recording red circle flashes in the top left.
        I usually go into the F12E Function Menu / Sensor View (down 12 beeps)/ then L for slightly better telemetry detail when flying (a pretty clumsy setup).
        You need to go into System Menu / Video Settings / and make Background Active so you can see FPV behind the telemetry first though – but only once.
        The Scout does decend very rapidly in ‘manual’ mode and you need to take care, but is slower and more controlled in GPS mode. It’s best not to come straight down as the craft is affected by it’s own prop wash, so moving forward while coming down is a good idea. Also don’t have your throttle on 0% for very long – avoid it if possible as there’s been reports of motors stopping in the air :/ Lots to remember eh!!
        Video back to the transmitter is affected by distance, you should get 250-300m only with standard antennas and obstacles. Make sure your antennas are screwed on properly, mine do come lose. For best results, F12E antennas should be side on to the craft, not pointing at it. Check the recording quality is ok to make sure it’s not an issue with the camera – I just read your using a gopro so check your cables.
        If flying in ‘manual’ mode you should either turn GPS off in mission planner (I have not tried that), OR wait 3 mins and have GPS before lift off! Mine slammed into my house when I didn’t wait and it picked up GPS in the air, so be warned!
        There’s nothing wrong with flying in manual mode, the Scout is faster and more responsive. When you switch to GPS, make sure your a few meters up and have the throttle at 50% or slightly more or it will drop – you can recover though, hence the few meters up. It is a lot easier to fly in GPS mode but wise to get lots of practice in manual too.
        In GPS, the main advantage is it will hold altitude better – just put the throttle at 50% and it should sit there, where as manual you have to constantly adjust the stick to maintain a hover.

        I have two ponies, chickens and there’s some goats at a neighbours, don’t think they faint though, lol.
        Us Tasmanians are known for having two heads – I reckon that’s because we’re twice as smart! 😉
        Good luck with your flying.

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    2. When you go into GPS 1 and that happens, is it easy to go back into “0” manule mode? Or are you getting erratic behavior ? Thank you and good luck, seems like the Scout X4 should be the X scout 4 people who have been mislead by Walkera. Ps please don’t ban me for making jokes

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  6. You have a lot of great information on this site. I have checked online all over the place and don’t see much information on the scout but this page has given me a lot. I am new with the scout and do have some questions. One of them is I bought some sky zone goggles and having problems setting up the head tracking with the Devo F 12 e.

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    1. Hi Andy, Thanks for you comment. I’m fairly new to quadcopters and have not yet played with FPV goggles, but I do intend to. The best place to ask questions is the Walkera Scout X4 Facebook Group. Unfortunately I’ve been banned for making a joke – so don’t make any jokes :/
      There’s a lot of great guys in THIS group though and I’m still in there 🙂 I will continue to update this page as information is passed to me. Cheers.

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      1. thanks sooo much for all your work with this site really helpful info!!!! I have to say i feel robbed that i got the scout simply because of all the bluetooth capabilities way point planning etc maybe I just can’t figure it out but it seems like false advertising to me!!! I wouldn’t feel so bad if I could just find a way to mod return to home altitude from default 15 m to higher without using gcs that doest exist or mission planner that I can’t seem to get loaded or bluetooth that I almost have working on a droid i bought evan though Im an iOS guy just because mission planner can’t be found on iOS come to find out !! who can i pay to help me with all this stuff? my zip is 21771 Maryland Before my scout ends up looking like the one in the pic lol wow

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      2. Hi Dale, Thanks for your feedback. The Scout is definately not for beginners – having said that, I am a beginner and have had to learn HEAPs – as you can see. I’ve just added a new and seperate full Mission Planner and APM page with installation instructions and the settings explained – just for you 😉 Hope it helps and is clear enough.
        I don’t think newly released Scouts have the mods and changes yet. I am aware of a new thicker and squarer GPS antenna and would appreciate a photo of the internals for comparison.
        Mission planner is PC based and should be just used to change the settings. The Ground Station software is GCS for Android. This is still not yet stable or available on iTunes or Android store but there is an android version avalable HERE It is not yet recommended for use, though some people have started testing it. I will post more about it as I find out.

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  7. Time how long the light blinks after turning on the the scout battery, mine blinks for about 45sec to a min.

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  8. Hey, I figured it out…lol, I went thru my transmitter settings and discovered that my FMOD and RUDD switches was INHIBIT, I made them ACTIVE and
    problem solved!!:-)

    Liked by 1 person

  9. Has anyone had problems with the b6 charger charging 11.1 volt lipo tx battery i am trying to charge a bran new 3s 1100 mah battery and it starts then gives me an error code open circut

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  10. thanks so much for all tas view has done for my flying experience although it has caused me to be much more cautious i know its for the best. Id rather have a defense against the short comings of this purchase and hope that I’m not one of the victims of a crash or fly away thanks for all your time!!

    1 do your settings have any negative effect on mission planner waypoint flying cause i might want to fly with that i know its a risk but thats the purpose i bought it for etc etc.
    2 when I’m around my house i seam to get a screen ripple problem could that be from wifi or interference of that type? still haven’t flown anywhere else so not sure if i can plan on that going away
    3 when i make all changes to tx when i learn how to update it will it erase all the changes that u had me make?
    4 same with mission planner i should never update it i assume
    5 have u had bad experiences with the way point missions etc i understand people have but couldn’t that be user error u will always have a percentage of people that do things wrong that cause issues or are there instances of fly aways that were definitely not caused by user error
    6 is it a bad idea to flip back and fourth from gps mode to manual fly mode during flight?
    7 I like to fly far distances if considering clear line of site or little obstructions etc what distance in meters would u not extend over?
    8 i few today after recalibrating and i noticed unit going in and out of gps fro longer that the 5-10 min is that normal. I only recalibrate because i don’t think i did a good job the first time and also had some tbe like u mentioned
    9 the mod u listed for landing gear is that caused from hard landings or is that a ness thing to do regardless of landing ability not to excited about taking it apart
    10 any thought of selling mod packages I would purchase one
    11 any thought on having a Q and A page for all questions or is this the place i should be asking questions
    12 waiting 3 mins for gps is still necessary even if u see 3 or more blinks sooner?
    13 not that I’m going to but curious if i don’t wait 3 mins but still have 3 blinks will or could it cause problems for the whole flight or be at risk for the whole fight or only at risk for the first 3 mins? the reason I ask is because i just learned that from you and like in question 8 I noticed it would go in and out of gps and the drone would stabilize and un-stabalize as it came in and out!
    14 what would happen if i was in return to home mode and i lost gps reception for several seconds

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    1. Hi Dale, I’m new to multirotors myself, the Scout being my first big quad and what is on these Scout pages is what i have learnt in the short time I’ve had it, muxh of the advice is sourced from others or fron incidents I’ve had so I can only really comment on those things as I still have much to learn. The best place to ask questions is in the RC Scout forums or Facebook groups as there are many experienced operators there that have helped me. Having said that I’ll answer what I do know about.
      It’s good to be over-cautious as most pilot errors happen when you become over confident, glad the info here has helped you.
      1 I have not tried mission planner properly yet other than an initial bind and play. It’s best to not use it yet until some problems are ironed our and it is more proven. There is already a firmware update on the Walkera site for the ground station and Scout BT modules – update instructions are in the quickstart guide. The GCS app is not yet refined enough to trust fully, for now it is only available from the Walkera site and is not on playstore it iStore. It would be wise to wait until it’s available there and more experienced users have tested it.
      2 the video system uses 5.8ghz, there could be local interference, its close to microwave range, I’d suggest you try another more open location.
      3 I don’t know, you should back up your settings before updating incase something goes wrong
      4 The parameter changes you make in mission planner are saved to your Scout and downloaded from the Scout when you connect so updating MP should not lose your settings – however, you should backup your Scout settings onto your PC. You should NOT update mission planner (from 1.3.5 I think) yet as there is a compass error issue in the later versions which wiil cause problems.
      5 I have not used waypoint mission planning yet but a few people have started testing it. The problem atm is BT will currently override the f12e controller. There is a mod being looked into that involves rewiring to bypass the BT module inside the Scout which will allow you to takeover control with the f12e while in BT mode. I’ll put that on the mods page after I’ve tested it. I probably wont be using the GCS app until the mod is sorted.
      6 I’ve had no problems switching modes in flight but BEWARE to maintain your throttle over 50% and be ready to react if it starts to lose altitude.

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    2. 7 for long distance flying you will need to upgrade your antennas. The 5.8g video only has a default range of around 300m. I’ve only just started looking into this, there is a little info I recently added to the mods page.

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    3. 8 clouds, trees, buildings, hills etc and solar activity can affect gps. Clear open spaces with a clear view of the sky are best. The gps module on the Scout is not the best. Some users in the FB group are currently looking into if and how it can be upgraded.
      9 The landing gear servo is poorly designed and if you don’t want it to malfunction you should do the foam tape mod – it cushions the small switches from the moving retract mechanism. You should also add .5A fuses in the sero power line as it takes power from the same source as the main board. If the retract servos fail/ short out it has been known to also take out the mainboard!!
      While it would be possible to sell you modified retract servos, the other mods are done inside the Scout. Given postage costs and the time involved, it would be pretty expensive, if i were to do them for you and i could not offer any guarantee.
      11 The FB groups and forums are the best places too ask questions about issues I’ve not yet dealt with. That’s where ive found this info scattered about or asked if I’ve had a problem.
      12, 13 Yes, still wait 3 mins, arm, disarm and rearm before lift off. Needs time to download all satelite info and rearming resets the barometer altitude and saves the home point.

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    4. 14 It should go into GPS failsafe if you have set that up in mission planner, then you would have to take over manually I would think.
      I missed a question, 1 some people have said the RTH final altitude should be changed back to 0 if using the GCS app as it is difficult to fly manually using the 8nscreen sticks in GCS.

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      1. As of yet I never look forward nor want to ever use a phone or tablet to fly with anyway. I am only interested in ground station to set way points through a computer phone or tablet would be nice but I would hope that during a mission I could always abort and go to manual mode on the 12e and take over if something went wrong is that right? furthermore when the drone is under gps control for instance just hovering it is being told by satellites its location etc and is being told its location and somehow the onboard computer tells the motors how fast to spin along with witch ones at what times to hold its location or something to that effect? So therefore when u let go of the sticks gps is telling it what to do and how to hold its location! correct me if I’m wrong but I would also conclude that when gps is enabled and u flick the rth switch that it is only telling the drone to go to a preset waypoint witch is home that was just manually set by locking and unlocking the motors? so therefore when u flick the switch to return home it would be no more risky doing that than to be flying waypoint missions other than there is more than one waypoint at a time set when doing waypoints rather than return home only has one. but none the less I would think that flicking the switch back to manual fly mode during return to home would be just the same to stop the mission at had as flicking the switch to setting during a multi waypoint mission? with that i could see some dangers if the mission flys u out of or closer to being out of range of the controller but is it safe to say that as long as u are reedy for something to go wrong during a mission u could be just as safe as a fly away that might happen during return to home mission? am I out in left field?

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      2. Hi,

        Im having problems in motors, motors from back seems to work harder as scout goes forward , what should I do to make them work with the same speed?

        Thanks in advance

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      3. Hi Beco,
        The back motors should work harder as it lifts the Scout up on an angle to propel it forward. It does take about 4 batteries before the Scout settles in GPS mode. If yours are doing it too much your controller may need recalibrating or try restoring your Mission Planner settings to default then re-configuring them.

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      4. Beco,
        Another thought because it happened to me today – my GPS antenna mount has become loose due to a recent flip on landing (pilot error on unlevel hard ground) and the GPS was leaning backwards instead of level during today’s flight. Because of this my scout flew in a forward motion in GPS mode until I landed in manual and fixed it. Check your GPS antenna is level 🙂

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  11. There is a mod that can be done inside the Scout which bypasses BT on screen stick control back to the F12E. I have not done it yet but will add it to the mods page once I do. I’m currently testing PIDs settings and gaining confidence in the reliability of my Scout following a set routine that works for me. I will be continuing this testing for a few more hours flight time before changing anything else – one thing at a time, I’ve had too many issues to rush into new unproven things 🙂

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  12. To you edge, do you think since the roll over to 2015 we now have a new batch of Scouts that have the problems resolved? Has there been a Walkera response to the complaints?

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    1. Hi Jason, it would be nice to think so but I haven’t heard any news on what Walkera are changing or fixing at this stage. I don’t think newly released Scouts have the mods and changes yet.
      There is a new casing on the latest GPS antenna which is squarer, thicker and has a shield shape in it as well as the wire antenna’s on the bottom sides of the Scout now being offset with one pointing up the body instead of both laying flat, however users of these one’s have been reporting problems too.

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    2. I’ve recentrly read this in the Scout group:-
      Petri Junnila: Scout is get a New GPS, ESCs and New Firmware. One of Finnish supplier is in Walkera right now. He have a meeting and thy are spoken a Scout problem’s. WALKERA says everything workking now. ESCs problem is bad old Scout and they stop products in 2weeks because of ESCs. They advices to changes ESCs if they are old model. That Finnish supplier says he have a fly New Scout whit gsc and radio and works fine….

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  13. Hi Edge- I found this after being on the Facebook page. I am having some issues just binding with the scout, but not consistent. I was able to bind at first, had a short flight, all was well. Then I got constant beep/double buzzing from the Tx, but no bind. Tried Matt Kim alterations via APM, got one bind, then no more. Is it correct to use the bind plug in the receiver in AUX 7 to clear it, then restart and do an bind ID? I think I may be missing something basic about connecting the Tx with the scout.

    Thanks

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    1. I have not yet done the TX paired binding as I’m waiting on a minimosd to arrive and from my understanding of Matts instructions you need to open up the Scout to insert the binding plug and reset the reciever, so I’ll do it all at once. I know a few others have reported similar binding issues in the group, use the search function at the top of the group to find threads in there, hopefully you will find a solution to your problem.

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  14. Hello, My Devo F12E seems to randomly start vibrating 2 times a second over and over again. I thought this was the battery warning, however it seems to be happening more often and right when I start flying with a fully charged battery. I have flown my x4 about 5 times and have followed your instructions on charging etc. Am I just missing something?

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    1. I have not had this problem Jon but it could be a number of things. If the battery warnings on the F12E are set too high the alarm will keep going off. Check:
      (for scout battery)Model Menu / Sensor Setting / Voltage . External: V1 Active – default is 21.4, change to 21.6 – try lowering it to 21.2 and see if it happens still.

      If using 11.1v LiPo in “F12E be sure to change – System Menu / Battery / Alarm to 10.2V. I think it’s around 8v for AA’s. Try lowering it a little if using AA’s to see if beeping stops.

      It could also be a warning that it’s not getting enough telemetry – a failsafe to stop you taking off. Try it in an open are if you haven’t already.

      Something else you can try is to disable pre arm checks in Mission planner, BUT make sure you wait a full 3 minutes and get blue GPS lights before takeoff!!

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  15. Hi all, I have recently bought a Scout which is a later version with the small antennae aligned at right angles on the fuselage. I have still not flown the scout yet as it will bind ok and in a reasonable time but I can not get any blue flashes to indicate number of satellites received. GPS is working as the tx display is showing the correct co-ordinates for my location and I can get speed/altitude readings by moving the scout around by hand. Has anyone had trouble getting the flashing blue led to indicate a minimum number of sattelites? My location is just NE of Gympie Qld.
    Many thanks for all the other info, have modded the retracts and installed the fuses which makes me feel a lot more comfortable.
    Regards Brent

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    1. Hi Brent, try GENTLY cleaning the three battery contact prongs inside the Scout and the contacts on the battery. Sometimes it can take well over 2 mins for the blue light to start flashing. You need to be in clear open space. Sometimes powreing down, moving the Scout 10m or so and starting again can help. I’ve found the GPS to be fickle and am currently looking at upgrading my antenna to a class 8. I’ll post on the mods page if/when I do. If your Scout is a newer version the GPS enclosure should be squarer, thicker and have a shield shape on it – but I don’t know if or when the internals have been updated on the later versions.
      Good luck, hope you get it sorted and airborne 🙂

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      1. Thanks for the reply, I will try the scout in a few different locations and see how I go. I have noticed by watching the screen on the f12e that immediately at the time of binding I am getting some incorrect gps co-ordinates which keep changing/updating for around two minutes and then they settle on what I know to be the correct co-ordinates for my location. This would seem to indicate that I have a reliable fix after two minutes but possibly with a fewer number of satellites? Will watch your progress with the GPS aerial. Many thanks again for the valuable assistance.
        Regards Brent Williams

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      2. Hi Edge,
        Had still been unable to get a single blue flash from the Scout even though I live on an acreage on a hill fairly clear of trees etc. Decided to take the Scout to a different location (sports fields in town) and try the binding procedure there. After around two and a half minutes I started to get two to three flashes so I packed up and went home at least knowing now that the Scout was probably not the problem. I tried binding at home and quickly received a consistent five to six flashes! The Scout now also binds and gives the 5-6 flashes in around 40 seconds so it would seem that there is an
        initial period when the scout must “learn” some processes/parameters for itself. Keeping that in mind and the advice that the initial flights should be done in manual I decided it was also worth my while to walk around the property for ten minutes with the scout to let it maybe settle itself in regards
        to compass calibration etc. Am off interstate for the next week but now feel a lot more confident that I will have a succesful initial flight when I return. Many thanks again for all the good information.

        Regards Brent Williams

        Liked by 1 person

  16. If your not using the ground station, should you still do the set Fixed ID on the f12e, and also setup Failsafe?

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    1. From my understanding yes. If for some reason the F12E loses contact with the Scout the fixed ID will let it re-pair quickly to regain control. If it doesn’t re-pair or your TX battery fails, the failsafe will put the Scout into RTL.

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  17. OK thanks. I have a nother questions? The only thing I have done to scout x4 is binded it to the transmitter. So can I go ahead and do the fixed ID on f12-e and also set up the false safety then do calibration or do I need to calibrate the scout first then do the fix then recalibrate again?

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  18. Hi.
    Where i can find scout x4 devo setup?
    My lending retract don’t work and I have no idea why.

    All the time is open.
    One week ago everything works fine.

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    1. Sorry for the late reply, it sounds like your retracts have malfunctioned. You can confirm this by dismantling them and checking the mini switches – see the mods page for pics and instructions.
      Theres lots of info in the Facebook Walkera Scout X4 and Tali 500 support group.

      Like

  19. Hello Edge
    Thank God I found this web page. I have definitely had some questions answered but have
    many more . I have bought the scout mainly to be able to have the auto waypoint following. I had been looking at the Iris+ but the scout seemed to have more flight time and speed so I pulled the trigger and bought it not knowing all the problems with it . I thought I had done enough research but it looks like I made a gross mistake.
    My question is the problem with the gps waypoint following the software that was created by Walkera or is it the scout hardware itself. If I understand it uses the same equipment that is in the iris+ I believe is the apm or pixhawk receiver and flight controller. If so could not the Mission planner or droneplanner software be used with the iris+ and correct the problem??? I bought my scout from Walkerhelicopter supply and I believe it is the newer version. I am very new to this so I need alot of help .
    Thanks for any help
    Chuck Lobrano
    Also is there any tutorial about how to download the new firmware up date on the walkera site to my
    soft ware

    Liked by 1 person

    1. Hi Chuck, sorry for not replying earlier. I made a gross mistake too and my Scout is no longer flying :/
      The GPS used in the Scout is older technology and not very good but I’ve read they’ve updated it in the later versions. I only tried the GCS feature once very briefly. The best place to get help and ask questions is the new “Walkera Scout X4 and Tali 500 support group” on Facebook.

      Like

  20. Holy Cow…..You guys have sure answered a lot of my questions, that the open box instructions did not. Thank You.

    I’m a first time flyer of this caliber machine and have been hovering the quad in a 15′ X 15′ room inside the house at about 10 inches off the floor so as to get the feel for it. However the temp here in Missouri did get above freezing saturday so i took it for a GPS flight. Hmmmm….. I did the binding, calibrated the compass, received 3 blinking blues, spun up the rotors, positioned my switch to manuel or “O”, moved up to 50 + percent and let her hover about 12 inches, then moved her around inside of a 10 x10 area so she could learn for about 8 minutes, set her back down, then switched to GPS or middle position “1”, pushed up on throttle, two props spun up and stopped, said Hmmmmm…. repeated the above…. tried it again… same thing happened.

    Anybody got any idea what im doing wrong?

    PS Hey Brian, I have several of your VX scopes…. great product… Thank you.
    PSS… I can solder 🙂

    Thanks to all
    Bart

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    1. Thanks for the kind comments about our site, sorry I did not reply earlier. Please join the new “Walkera Scout X4 and Tali 500 support group” on Facebook and ask any unanswered questions in there. I have not experienced this issue but it may be that your Scout was not level enough? Just a guess.

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  21. Ok, so i have done many of the changes in the Tx as far as the settings go. I am trying to find out more info on the failsafe procedure. Do i need flight planner for this failsafe to work? i recently had the tx shut down mid flight lickily i was about 6″ off the ground but it still took a tumble. Should the failsafe settings suggested by mr. Kim safely land the quad if this should haplen again? Even if i do not currently use flight planner?

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  22. I recently performed most of these changes in my tx. I still have a few questions abuot the failsafe settings provided by mr. Kim. Do i absolutely have to have flight planner for this to work? Will it affect my quad if i dont have flight planner? I recently had my tx reset mid flight, luckily only 6″ off the ground but it still took a tumble. With these failsafe settings, should this happen again, will the quad simply land it it loses signal from the TX? Im dying to know as i am to fly until i can get some more details. I currently do not use flight planner aand dont want these settings to cause any problems with my x4.

    Thanks

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    1. Hi, some settings can be changed through the BT CGS software for Android but it is recommended to follow Matt Kims suggestions. There is a new Facebook group: “Walkera Scout X4 and Tali 500 support group”, it is best to join up and ask your questions there. I no longer fly my Scout after a pilot error causing major damage, I have abandoned it and built a F550 Flamewheel with Naza.

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  23. Do you know were I can find the Matt Kim imax settings. My scout x4 is pushing forward? our could you send me a link to get it faster. Thanks.

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    1. From the Scout X4 and Tali H500 FB group: ” Matt Kim told us with the pulling forward issue to try turning up IMAX in MP under Config tuning > extended tuning > rate/pitch and roll. Turn it up to 1000 from 500″

      I have not tried this or done the firmware update as my Scout no longer flies. Best of luck.

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